Welcome to today’s episode of the Stitch Safari Podcast titled, Dynamic Embroidery – The Power of Pattern.

This is where design begins to show its personality, verve, and appeal in the simple, or not-so-simple, arrangement of lines and marks that form a rhythmic, repeating, and magic-making pattern.

Whether man-made or naturally occurring, pattern suggests rhythm, repetition, and energy that has the power to move our eyes, stir our emotions, and tell stories that go far beyond the surface—and I love it!

Storytelling and embroidery were made for each other.

Simple patterns that use basic, repeating elements or intricate patterns featuring complex and detailed arrangements of many interconnected parts can be found in detailed floral designs, elaborate Paisley and Islamic motifs, ornate mandalas and complex geometric compositions.

Patterns such as geometric designs or stylised floral motifs formed a significant aspect of art and architecture from ancient times to the present day.  The popularisation of the fleur-de-lis motif, for instance, demonstrates how patterns have evolved with fashion and heraldry over time.

Ancient Greek philosophers like Pythagoras and Plato studied patterns in nature with the Fibonacci sequence and spiral arrangement recognised for their recurrence in various organic forms.  You just knew maths would be popping up in this episode somehow, and so it should, I suppose.

From ancient cultural motifs to bold contemporary designs, pattern has the power to transform embroidery into something alive and dynamic – I can’t think of a world without it.

In this episode, I’ll delve into how repetition, variation, and rhythm, the holy trinity of pattern, bring movement and energy to textiles and embroidery and why pattern has such a lasting, almost magnetic pull.

What exactly is a pattern, and why does it mean so much to us?

A pattern is defined by its regularity.  The elements within a pattern repeat predictably and logically.

Patterns can be found in nature, as well as man-made, in the decorative arts, mathematics, and poetry.  Practical applications include forensic accounting to detect falsified data and the rhythmic patterns and meter found repeated in poetry.  Think of the epic poem, The Song of Hiawatha, written in 1855 by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, in trochaic tetrameter – creating a rhythm of eight syllables per line, for the entire saga.

Getting back to patterns in embroidery, I’ll be exploring and describing visual patterns – motifs that can be combined and repeated to achieve a desired effect on the viewer.

So why does pattern matter; why does it mean so much to us?

There are several reasons.  Some say the key function of repetition is control, allowing the artist to create structure.  Others say that echoing and repeating elements communicates a sense of balance, harmony and contrast.  Yet others align patterns with influencing perceptions, expressing emotions and connecting psychology to creativity.

What appeals most to me about pattern, as an observer of art and design, is the pure pleasure that the harmony of a pattern brings.  That one simple function is what I expect, recognise and require from a pattern.

And I believe that’s what most people would say.  Pattern is about garnering our interest and fostering a sense of comfort because we know what’s coming next. After all, it’s based on repetition.

Let’s look at some famous artists who have all worked very successfully with patterns.  Any Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe prints, Yayoi Kusama’s polka dot art, Jackson Pollock’s famous drip paintings, Gustav Klimt’s decorative works, Bridget Riley’s Op Art, the geometric designs from Islamic art and architecture, William Morris textiles and Aboriginal dot paintings.

All so different in their approach to using patterns, but all successful in their outcomes.

So let’s start with Mother Nature, who reigns supreme when it comes to patterns.  Many serve the functional purpose of camouflage, such as stripes on zebras.  As a group, it’s called dazzle camouflage, acting much like Op Art, making it difficult for predators to single out just one animal – simple yet effective.  Mother Nature is the provider of numerous examples of different kinds of patterns, including symmetry, fractals, spirals, meanders, waves, tilings, cracks and stripes.

And symmetry is a form of pattern, specifically a type of pattern defined by regularity, order and the repetition of elements or features through reflection, rotation or other transformations.

Symmetry serves as the structural backbone of patterns, helping us to understand balance and organisation in both natural and man-made designs.

The more I researched, the more obvious it became that symmetry is a recognisable, predictable and often beautiful aspect of patterns, providing the framework for understanding the order and balance in both the natural and the designed worlds.

Look at the beauty of butterflies with their bilateral symmetry, where one side of the delicate butterfly is a mirror image of the other, illustrating a pattern of identical halves.  I still love making butterfly paintings using one half of a sheet of paper and folding the other half over for an identical print.  The results are always pleasurable.

Many plants, through their flowers and leaves, display radial or bilateral symmetry, showcasing how repetitive, balanced forms create a natural pattern.

Now, not all patterns are symmetrical, fractals, for instance, yet symmetry represents one of the fundamental types of patterns found in the world, describing a predictable, perfect regularity within a pattern.  Other patterns might involve other types of repetition, such as spirals or tessellations.

So let’s highlight some of the patterns we can find fairly easily in the natural world.

Spirals: found in the bodies of animals, including molluscs such as the nautilus and also in many plants, where leaves spiral around the stem or in flowerheads, such as the sunflower or fruit structures such as the pineapple.  Hundertwasser frequently used spirals in his art and architecture because he saw them as symbols of life, growth and nature.

Chaos, turbulence, meanders and complexity: where events and patterns in nature are never exactly repeated because of differences in starting conditions that can lead to widely differing outcomes.

Waves:  The windswept patterns of waves create chaotic patterns in the sea, but as they pass over sand, they create ripples and dunes.

Foam and bubbles: another set of patterns that occur widely in nature

Cracks: are widespread, occurring in rocks, mud, tree bark and the crazed glazes of old paintings and ceramics.

Spots and stripes: these patterns can be found on the skin of mammals or the plumage of birds.

And while all of these patterns are fascinating and inspiring for any designer, what of man-made patterns?

These occur in painting, drawing, tapestry, embroidery, tiling or carpets.  Architecture often includes repeat patterns through the use of pediments, columns, lintels and windows.

These pattern-types convey motion, rhythm, energy, or transformation.

There is a contrast to be had, however, via the use of static and dynamic patterns.  Static patterns are fixed and unchanging.  Think of a quilt block that’s repeated over and over again without any change.  That’s static.  Dynamic patterns, on the other hand, are repeating arrangements that can change and evolve, offering greater visual interest.  So that initial quilt block may change colour, include more shapes and become more intricate.

Now let’s look at the magnificent examples of Islamic tessellations that include intricate patterns, creating geometric shapes such as stars, hexagons, circles and squares.  These form the most amazing repeating, infinitely-expanding patterns that reflect the Islamic preference for abstract geometric art over figurative depictions.

One of my favourite applications of Islamic art is the arabesque – that sinuous and sensuously delicate form of artistic decoration based on rhythmic patterns of scrolling and interlaced foliage, tendrils or simple, plain lines.  The result has a softness and rhythm of design that is very satisfying to the eye.

Now, just try to keep India out of the world of pattern.  Renowned for its intricate patterning used to decorate architecture, textiles, and household items and also one of the best-known Persian/Indian patterns, the Paisley motif, found in numerous design applications.  Block prints, sarees, tie-dyes and embroideries abound in rich floral and geometric patterns that catch the eye and hold the heart.  Both tradition and symbolism express the utter joy of rich patternation in their henna work, mehendi, applied to women’s hands and feet to celebrate weddings and festivals.

Pattern-making Japanese Sashiko uses a simple running stitch to create a multitude of repeated patterns used to mend, reinforce and decorate fabric, blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics.  These amazing designs bring a timeless charm through their use of repeated geometric and symbolic patterns, adding texture and visual interest.

So with all these examples of both natural and man-made patterns, we can analyse the effect or visual force exerted by the use of patterns.

How does a pattern create a visual force?

Through the use of repetition, rhythm, movement, harmony, balance, emphasis, contrast, and structure, providing organisation to the composition.

Visual force actively influences how a viewer perceives and interacts with an artwork by structuring the visual information and guiding their experience.

Not bad when you think about it.  Suddenly, the pattern becomes far more important and interesting in the scheme of things.

Now, let’s investigate these forces are little more deeply.

Repetition as Rhythm:  repetition creates rhythm by reusing visual elements such as line, shape or colour to establish a pattern that guides the viewer’s eye through the composition.  This organisation helps generate a sense of unity and flow, similar to a musical beat.  Various types of rhythm include regular, alternating and progressive.  Rhythm can be achieved by regulating the intervals and variations of the repeating elements.  Examples include geometric grids, floral repeats and abstract waves.

Variation within Repetition:  slight changes in pattern help keep a design alive and dynamic.  Repeated elements such as shape, line and colour include slight, deliberate differences that create visual interest, preventing monotony yet still able to guide the viewer’s eye.  This helps generate a sense of rhythm and unity, adding dynamism while preventing the composition from feeling flat or predictable.

To apply variation within repetition, change the size, alter colours, modify texture, vary spacing and introduce contrast.  Examples can be found in nature in the repeating pattern of leaves on a tree, which often include variations in size, colour, and shape, creating a more complex and interesting visual effect than identical leaves would.  Paul Klee also used this technique in his work.

Symbolism in Patterns: The cultural meaning of patterns lies in their role as visual narratives and symbolic structures, reflecting a community’s structure, history, beliefs, values, and identity. They serve as forms of storytelling, communication, and decoration in architecture, textiles, and art.  Patterns convey rich cultural significance that can depict sacred stories illustrating virtues, represent concepts such as longevity, unity or a connection with nature, fostering a sense of belonging and cultural heritage.  Examples can be found in Navajo patterns, Islamic geometric patterns and the paisley tear-drop motif of Persian/Indian origin.

Embroidery acts as a language by embedding signs and symbols with specific cultural and spiritual meanings.  These can represent community, identity, historical narratives or personal messages.  It’s the rhythmic repetition of stitches that creates visual patterns and textures while connecting our internal psychological state with our external realities.  Who knew?  It can facilitate a form of healing, serve as a secret language, document stories, express hopes and maintain cultural connections.

Every stitch contributes to a larger narrative on the fabric, transforming it into a dynamic form of storytelling.  It can be meditative, therapeutic or act as a living system of writing, transmitting knowledge and meaning in a community.  Historical examples include the symbolic floral collars in Ancient Egypt and coded messages stitched during World War II – research the Changi quilts for just one example of coded messages.

Patterns can also be used to create optical effects such as the illusion of motion, depth or warping.

Op Art makes great use of these illusions by using geometric patterns, line and colour to create sensations of movement or vibration.  Other effects include illusory contours, after-images and the Toxler effect, where certain patterns or images can fade or change through prolonged fixation.

There is, however, yet another form of art called kinetic art, a term coined in 1920, that describes any medium that contains movement perceivable by the viewer, or that depends on motion for its effects.  Look at the work of Alexander Calder for fascinating examples of patterns in motion.

So how can embroidery artists utilise techniques that will help create dynamism in patterns?

It’s not as hard as you think.  Try the following:

• use a combination of contrasting elements, like large and small, few and many, smooth or textured – this holds the viewer’s attention
• use a variety of colour values from light, lights through to dark, darks – this adds depth and dimension
• use a variety of different stitch types to evoke a sense of energy and movement – this creates a dynamic look and varied texture
• introduce variety, rhythm, repetition and unexpected details to engage the viewer and guide the eye
• experiment with gradient and variegated threads, layering stitches and using unique materials for depth and visual interest
• consider using asymmetrical designs instead of perfect symmetry or scatter elements for a more organic, naturalistic look
• remember that rhythm through repeated motifs creates a sense of cohesion, while slight variations add surprise
• breaking or disrupting a pattern can help achieve a sense of movement
• layering techniques using either fabrics or threads add depth and texture, and help create a more dimensional and intricate effect
• embrace those mistakes and work with your intuition – just let the work evolve
• use the elements of line, shape, colour and texture to tell a story and convey emotions that resonate with your viewer
• combine embroidery with other media – digital, print, beading, or appliqué to amplify the energy of the design
• step back and assess as you work for continuous self-development

Including these small, easy-to-achieve details in your designs will help prevent monotony and make for a more compelling and interesting artwork.

Want to take this further?  Research the following artists who use a repeat pattern in their work:

• Meredith Woolnough
• Kaffe Fassett
• Robert Honeyman
• Wendy Williams – Flying Fish Kits
• Bloom and Floss
• Miss Shelley Designs – Abstract Embroidery

A simple search for ‘pattern in embroidery’ on Pinterest will offer a multitude of very different yet interesting results, but let’s not forget that utilising pattern in embroidery is not new.

Numerous traditional artists use repeated motifs for storytelling.  In Folk Art traditions, repeating patterns of animals, plants, and celestial bodies could symbolise natural elements, mythological stories or spiritual beliefs.

Geometric, floral, Tree Of Life, colours and even alphabets conveyed specific meanings such as fertility, beauty in imperfection, sustainability, or became a visual narrative or a learning tool.

More complex narratives could evolve from placing simple motifs one on top of the other or by rotating or mirroring them, creating new composite motifs.  These could form a linear progression or visual sequence much like a page in a book or a panel in a comic strip.

Pattern draws us in.  It can energise or calm and soothe through its rhythmic connection to time and process, mirroring meditation, ritual and persistence, acting as a bridge between chaos and order in design and life, becoming a metaphor for resilience, adaptation and change.

Invest in the aesthetics of patterns to create beauty, harmony and visual rhythms in your designs. They provide a sense of order and structure that can help make designs more understandable and meaningful.

So why not experiment with a simple motif across a clean page?  Repeat it, add to it, play with scale, disrupt it intentionally.  Observe other patterns in nature, architecture, music, literature and bring them into your embroidery with intention, variation and rhythm.

Remember, embroidery becomes dynamic when it refuses to sit still, when it dances across the fabric, drawing us in and holding us there.

Allow your embroidery to dance.  Imbue your work with pattern because you won’t regret it.