The premise for the Stitch Safari Podcast has always been very simple. It was to explore, uncover and learn – mostly directed towards myself.
So, I investigate when I see or read something that interests me.
That’s all it takes to uncover some amazing facts that can unravel the threads of culture, history, and identity, embroidery-related, of course, and that’s exactly what happened here with the stunningly elegant Lehenga.
In this episode, I’m travelling to exotic India, where embroidery isn’t simply decoration; it’s devotion to a long and fascinating heritage, as told through the Lehenga, a tale of elegance and timeless beauty.
You can twirl into tradition with the perfect Lehenga, where culture is worn with pride and a regal charm that never fades. The world may change, but tradition endures when women walk with grace, draped in elegance that is pure magic.
Trust me when I say, I could watch the making of these Lehengas, the draping and the wearing of them forever.
The timeless ensemble, the Lehenga Choli, carries with it centuries of tradition, showcasing a canvas of regional craftsmanship adorned with shimmering threadwork, mirror pieces, and intricate hand and machine-embroidery, telling stories of community, status, and ceremony.
Can you understand my excitement now?
Whether you’re a textile artist, an embroiderer, a lover of fashion or simply curious about the art that clothes us, join me in this episode as I explore the exquisite world of India’s embroidered Lehengas.
To begin, I needed to understand exactly what a Lehenga and a Lehenga Choli were, as I initially found the terms confusing.
A Lehenga is a traditional Indian garment worn by women and girls, consisting of a long skirt, typically ankle-length. It comes with several variations, including narrow-skirted, A-line, Flared, double Flared, Mermaid, Panelled, Sharara, Straight and Trail.
A Lehenga Choli, however, is the entire ensemble that includes the Lehenga, the Choli, and the Dupatta.
The Choli or fitted top exposes the midriff and often features intricate designs and embroidery that complement the Lehenga.
The Dupatta is a long scarf or shawl that can be draped over the shoulders or head, adding a touch of colour and elegance that brings the entire outfit together.
These three items create a garment of pure magic, one that has maintained traditions while embracing modernity. It’s extravagant, exotic, and utterly Indian.
The Indian Lehenga holds immense significance for its wearer due to its exquisite craftsmanship, vibrant colours, and intricate embellishments reflecting India’s rich heritage and traditions. It’s often worn at weddings and festive occasions.
The Lehenga can be traced back to the 10th century in India, gaining prominence in the later, majestic courts of Mughal-era India, where the luxurious garment was primarily worn by royalty and aristocracy. It was characterised by intricate embroidery, lavish and colourful fabrics and elaborate embellishments that reflected the opulence, status and wealth of the Mughal dynasty.
The Mughals were great patrons of the arts, especially embroidery, introducing their unique style through nature-inspired motifs and embroidery techniques such as Threadwork, Zari and mirror work. The Persian influence introduced the use of exotic fabrics such as silk and brocade, as well as the intricate embroidery techniques of Zardozi and Gota work.
Now this is where it gets a little confusing because while Zari and Zardozi work are related, they are different.
Zari refers to metal threads, typically gold or silver, used in weaving and embroidery. Zardozi, however, is a far more complex and elaborate form of embroidery that utilises the Zari metallic threads, along with other materials such as beads, sequins and even precious stones to create three-dimensional raised designs.
In essence, Zari is the thread, and Zardozi is the art of using that thread, along with other materials, to create richly elaborate designs.
Can you understand my interest now?
Indian Threadwork refers to a hugely diverse range of intricate embroidery techniques and styles that add decorative patterns and designs to fabrics. Many of these techniques have been practised in India for centuries and include a variety of stitches and embellishments such as beads and mirrors, unique motifs and regional origins.
I cannot fully express the utter beauty of the embroidered Lehenga, so the next best thing is to describe some of the techniques used to create them, and in doing so, I give a huge nod to the Indian artisans who create such intricate, diverse and mesmerising embroidery.
Zarkan, where threads of silver and gold are used in complex designs on the fabric. Embellishments such as beads, sequins and other decorative elements are used to enhance the overall design. Historically, this technique was associated with bridal wear and ceremonial robes, offering a rich, heavy costume for special occasions. The patterns used are complex and repeated, giving a strong visual impact. Zarkan is related to Zardozi work, but uses metallic wires along with other embellishments to create complex designs.
Zardozi, slightly different from Zarkan, is a type of traditional metal thread embroidery that originated in Persia and became widely adapted in India during the Mughal era. The embroidery is worked by hand and often includes beads, sequins, spangles, pearls, precious stones, and flat and coiled metal wires. Zardozi is frequently used as a surface decoration for clothing such as bridal outfits and festive wear.
Resham is another traditional method used on Indian Lehengas. This form of silk embroidery came from ancient China and brings with it brilliant colour and texture. The art of silk production and embroidery travelled to India via the Silk Road, where it became firmly rooted in the country’s cultural and artistic traditions. This style of silk thread embroidery is especially delicate and popular as a choice for bridal wear, often featuring floral and paisley patterns.
Gota Patti embroidery is a Rajasthani style of embroidery that glitters with golden or silver ribbons. Gota means ribbon, and Patti means strips. They produce glittering works of art that are deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of India. It’s an image of luxury and tradition and is perfect for bridal outfits with its lustrous splendour. Patterns are created by sewing narrow ribbons of zari or metallic thread onto fabric using an appliqué technique.
Mirror Work or Shisha Embroidery, this is a centuries-old Asian/Indian style of embellishment that’s been passed down through generations of embroiderers. This style of embroidery from Gujarat has become symbolic of India’s textile heritage. Small mirrors, usually circular, are attached to the ground fabric using a variety of stitches by creating a grid-like pattern to hold them in place. The mirrors are encased using colourful threads and intricate stitching to create patterns that reflect light, while offering protection and good luck.
Aari or Maggam Embroidery is an ancient Indian technique from the North Indian states, where it’s known as Aari embroidery and Maggam embroidery in the Southern Indian states. It makes use of a specialised hooked needle called an aari needle to create intricate chain stitch patterns, lending itself to creating exquisite detail, featuring floral, paisley and geometric patterns.
Cutdana is a form of embroidery, traditionally used by ancient Indian royalty, that involves threading tiny, tube-shaped beads made of glass, metal or (now) plastic and stitching them onto the fabric to create beautiful patterns. The beads are cylindrical and faceted, cut to enhance their reflective properties – hence their name, Cutdana. Because they’re cylindrical, they can be worked close together, forming continuous lines and intricate patterns. This style of embroidery is cherished for its exquisite craftsmanship and its ability to evoke a sense of grandeur and elegance.
Pulkhari Embroidery hails from Persia and is an enchanting embroidery technique. Known as the beautiful fruit of the land of the Punjab, one of India’s most fertile regions, this style captures the essence of a blooming garden with its colourful and intricate patterns. Brightly coloured threads create dense fills or elaborate patterns on exotic or plainer fabrics. Working with untwisted silk thread creates a rich and textured surface. This style of intricate embroidery produces bright, well-balanced motifs.
Dabka Embroidery refers to a spring-type of thread or coiled wire that originated in Rajasthan and is integral to traditional Indian and Pakistani craftsmanship. This fascinating embroidery technique makes use of metallic threads, predominantly gold or silver-coated copper wires that are meticulously stitched using a special needle. The result is rich, intricate and dimensional. This style of embroidery is known for its intricate patterns and the shimmering embossed look it creates. It requires precision and skill to work, but adds unbelievable opulence to the garment.
And lastly, Chikankari, an exquisitely delicate form of embroidery that traces its history to the city of Lucknow, with references to similar work as far back as the 3rd century BC. Chikan began as a type of white on white embroidery characterised by its fine and intricate threadwork. Now, it’s typically stitched in beige or white thread on a white or pastel coloured lightweight fabric. Various stitches are used, including Shadow work, where the design is created by stitching over the shadow of the thread. The result is soft, draping and delicate – perfect for bridal wear.
These techniques give any Indian bride an instant connection with their culture, traditions and heritage. It’s not simply decorative; it carries social, spiritual and symbolic meaning that reflects the rich heritage of a region, while adding touches of elegance, majesty, delicacy and artistry to the garments.
These embroidery techniques carry the soul of the people of India with every passing of a needle and thread and have historically been inspired by nature, wildlife and culture, but some also describe the tales from Ramayana, an ancient Indian text, on fabric.
The focus in this episode, however, is on the bridal Lehengas, which have gradually transitioned into preferred bridal wear and have become a staple at Indian weddings.
They’ve also become extremely popular on social media. They’re colourful, exotic, highly embellished and richly coloured. They’re breathtaking. Add some clever hairstyling and make-up, amazing jewellery pieces, flowers and richly exotic backgrounds, and you have the perfect bridal photo shoot.
So, what exactly makes up the perfect bridal Lehenga Choli?
It must feature luxurious fabrics, a vibrant colourway, voluminous skirts, and exquisite embroidery and embellishments.
Some of the Lehengas are so heavily embellished and embroidered that they stand on their own.
Remember, this is not just a piece of clothing, this is tradition, elegance and a representation of the wearer’s status, and while deeply rooted in tradition, the Lehenga has evolved. Modern-day brides blend traditional elements with contemporary styles, incorporating unique designs, fabrics and embellishments, showcasing a fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics – something in which Indian embroidery excels.
The first criterion is, of course, fabric selection. Silk, chiffon, georgette, linen, satin, organza or cotton. Each of these fabrics offers the designer a different look, feel, texture or drape.
Then comes the pattern drafting and cutting based on the desired silhouette.
For me, it’s the multi-panelled, heavily embellished Lehenga that’s so stiff it needs a firm underskirt to help support and lift it outwards – one or two twirls and that skirt becomes a kaleidoscope of colour, light, and swirling patterns that is utterly mesmerising.
The embroidery is multifunctional. It’s a mix of decoration, storytelling, cultural identity, traditions, and personal stories. Even the smallest details can carry symbolic meaning.
Some brides wear their Grandmother’s Lehengas. Can you imagine how that must feel? Each stitch and every symbol tells a story of artistry and cultural pride, not to mention family pride, that speaks of love, prosperity, and the continuation of tradition.
And while I’ve focused on the bride here, the groom is also lavishly and elegantly attired, making for a very photogenic bridal couple.
It’s the artistry and lavishness that inspire me. That term, more is more, applies so well here, but it works, as it has always worked in Indian architecture and decoration, reflected in the patterns repeated across India.
This is a garment that reaches back before the Mughal era in India, yet now moves effortlessly between past and present. Every fashion-forward bride honours tradition while presenting a modern masterpiece in the form of a legacy that still captivates the eye.
So, who is behind keeping these traditions alive and prospering? The embroiderers, of course.
Exotic India Art: Indian Bridal Lehengas Types of Embroidery Works to Adore
the history of embroidery and beading on Indian lehenga
We know that Indian embroidery includes numerous styles, unique motifs and regional origins. Think of Chikankari from Lucknow, Zardozi, that’s rich and elegant, Pulkhari from the Punjab, Kantha from West Bengal and Kutch embroidery from Gujarat. Then there’s Crewel embroidery from Kashmir, with its big, bold, colourful designs worked in woollen threads using an aari hook. It’s eye-catching and vibrant.
Gotta work or Gotta Patti work originated in Rajasthan, where small pieces of gold and silver metallic ribbon, called Gotta, are appliqued onto fabric to create intricate patterns and decorative shapes.
Gotta work is frequently seen on traditional Indian attire, including Lehengas.
